Afghanistan is a country with a Muslim majority and a diverse and rich culture in the neighborhood of Iran. It was formed with the establishment of the Durrani Empire
Afghanistan is a country with a Muslim majority and a diverse and rich culture in the neighborhood of Iran. It was formed with the establishment of the Durrani Empire in 1126 AD. The old names of Afghanistan were Khorasan and Ariana, but due to the political dominance of Afghans three centuries ago, the name of this people was given to the country. The word Afghan refers to the Pashtun people.
Afghanistan has more than fifty ethnic groups, each of which has its own style of clothing and fabric decorations. Some ethnicities include Tajiks, Pashtuns (Afghans), Hazaras, Uzbeks, and small populations such as Imaq, Turkmen, Baluch, Pasha, Nuristani, Arab, Braboi, Pamiri, and Gujar. The official clothing of all these ethnicities consists of a long-sleeved shirt, pants and a chador or a long shawl.
In the constitution of Afghanistan, there are no rules and regulations for women's social clothing, however, in big cities like Kabul and Herat, the majority of women use mantles, shawls or masks when leaving the house. A small percentage also use a tent and rarely a burqa. In other provinces and villages, local clothes (kochi) are also used.
Hijab style in Afghanistan is more of a customary and traditional hijab than a religious hijab. Islamic hijab means covering the body (except the roundness of the face and hands up to the wrist) so that the prominence of the body is not visible. This shortcoming is clearly seen in the use of modern and local clothes.
Burqa or chador
Burqa is Arabicized from the Turkish word būrk which means hat. Burke is used in old Turkish clothes to cover the head or face. But in Afghanistan and Pakistan, women's veils and veils, especially half-veils or coverings that cover women's head to chest, are called burqas. In Hormozgan, women's decorative veils are also called burqas. Afghani burqa is a two-piece blue veil with mesh on the eyes. The veil of this tent is similar to a hat on the top of the head. Although this tent is known for its blue color, it is also produced in other colors such as white, green, etc. Some artists have been able to show creative and beautiful designs of this cover with the help of embroidery art.
According to historians, the history of the use of the burqa in Afghanistan is not clear, but it is said that the use of this covering has a long history. In a certain period, it was mandatory for women to use it, and after that, before it became mandatory again, the requirement to use this cover was removed, but still, Afghan women still use this cover and according to themselves, they feel safe in this cover. they do. The obligation of the burqa by some political authorities has caused some people to think that this covering is a must in Islam. If the choice of the type of coverage is left to the person and the only thing that is required is that the obligatory range is covered. Therefore, it is possible to observe the Islamic hijab with a coat and pants and a scarf, or Arabic and simple tents, shirts and scarves, etc., provided that it has enough coverage and is not objectionable according to the customs of any country.
Afghan Gand (gand)
Gend or firaq partug is the local dress of the Pashtun people, which is known as the national dress of Afghanistan. Gend includes three pieces of tent, shirt and pants. The tent of this covering is in the form of a long shawl or a very large square scarf, the border of which is beaded or needleworked. The special feature of the shirt is that it has long sleeves, a waist, and a flared skirt.
Although in the design of this dress, the aspects of wearing and hijab have been fully observed, but this dress is mostly used in weddings and parties. The designs and colors are very happy and varied and the arts used in sewing this dress do not reflect the taste of Afghan women. Due to the cold and mountainous climate of Afghanistan, this dress is made of thick fabrics such as linen, velvet or linen. In different provinces of Afghanistan, this dress is prepared with different designs. Bead embroidery, glass work, coin embroidery, Zari embroidery, Khamek embroidery, Chobak embroidery, Pukhte embroidery, Dagger embroidery, Graph embroidery, Kandahari embroidery, Turkmen embroidery, Button embroidery, Baluchi embroidery, Chain embroidery (used to decorate flowers) and Checken embroidery are arts that are used in These clothes are used to decorate and show off. According to Afghan tailors, it takes from one week to one month to sew this dress, depending on its decorations.
Tailor's clothing
The Hazaras are one of the ethnic groups of Afghanistan, which have the largest ethnic population after the Pashtuns. Hazara women's clothing is also very attractive and its unique feature is the use of coin embroidery art and the use of unique necklaces and headbands. Hazara's dress is like a three-piece and has a shirt, turban and chador. The pleated skirt is accompanied by a turban or undergarment. The lower turbans are made of cheap fabrics such as floral chits and the upper skirts are made of better fabrics such as velvet or linen and have a border or decoration at the bottom. The women's shirt is up to the calf, has a closed collar and long sleeves and has a vest that has slits on both sides and is placed on the skirts. Some of these clothes do not have slits and are made in the form of a flower (circle). If the shirt is not made of simple and floral material, the collar is embroidered with sequins.
All kinds of trees, birds and crooked lines are sewn on the vests with handmade arts. The clothes of the Russians and youths have special decorations called tiqi chighi (hamail) which is made like a gun holster, with the difference that instead of bullets and bullets, golden or "ashrafi" coins are placed in it along with colorful button beads. . The carrier is beautifully sewn with a needle. Some Hazare areas sew covering piece with colorful threads on cloth.
Hazara women have a hat called Sarghuch or Sarghut, which is very well sewn and has several pieces. The hat has a tail or pendant that when it is put on, the back hair is placed inside the pendant.
Piki is another hazraj covering decoration that is in the shape of a circle and women wear it vertically on the forehead. This circle, around which there are silver tassels in different shapes such as the shape of a tree, plant bush and flower branches, is also called taweezk (small amulet). The talisman is square and rhombus-like. In each ear, a few other small amulets hang, which give pleasant music when the volume is turned up and down.
The silver necklace that hangs on the neck of Hazare is called a collar, and its pendants, which are tied vertically on it, are called Jodane. There is a red gem in the last row of rodents that shines when it moves.
They have another pendant in the temple which is called Bali. Bali has tassels and collars that are made like piki and hang vertically on the temple. The part that is placed on the forehead is called the chain, and the part that hangs on both sides of the forehead is called Bali. Piki is placed on the chain.
Modern clothes
As we said, local clothes such as Gend and Hazaragi are used more in small towns and villages and in gatherings and parties. But in big cities like Kabul, modern clothing such as mantles, trousers, coats and skirts are common. This type of cover is usually seen among the educated class.
silver scarf
Women who want to use a chador use a simple chador and rarely wear a burqa. Especially in the city of Herat, a simple veil is a common cover for women.
Punjabi
Punjabi dress is another dress that is used in Afghanistan. Of course, this coverage is not related to the Afghan people and was specific to the countries of Pakistan and India, and it has been popularized by immigrants returning from these countries and Indian films in Afghanistan. This cover also has three pieces of shirt, pants and shawl.
In general, the clothing is different in different regions of Afghanistan and the people of each city and tribe wear clothes according to their customs and traditions. The special feature of clothing in this region is the combination of shirts, pants and large headgear similar to shawls and chadors, all of which have cheerful colors and various decorations.
